Friday, April 04, 2008

My trip to Misr (aka Egypt)

Todd and I have just returned from Egypt and it was an interesting trip. We both had a good time but when we arrived back in Moscow, we felt a sudden sense of relief.


We departed from Moscow on the 22nd of March. When we arrived we were dumped in the most jumbled, chaotic airport I have ever seen. We quickly bought out visa and stood in line to go through passport control. Then we got our bags. All of this took 15 minutes. If you know something about airports, this is incredibly quick. So it may have been crazy but it was fast! The hostel we booked gave us a free pick-up at the airport, so we were happy to see Todd's name in big green letters waiting for us. The boy (he was 19) who drove us to the hostel was very nice but didn't speak a work of English. I didn't know then how much I would appreciate that later!


We stayed for two nights in Cairo. Our first night we only ate some Egyptian food and then went to bed. On the second day we booked a tour of Giza, to see the pyramids. We had a driver and a guide who spoke reasonably good English. Part of the tour we paid for also allowed us to visit a perfume shop (probably our guide's cousin), then we visited a papyrus shop (probably the driver's family shop), then we visited a carpet factory (probably someone else's relative). But we did get to see the pyramids, the sphinx, and saqqura.


Then on the next day, we took a four hour bus ride to the oasis town of Bahariyya. We had some problems when we first got on the bus because the man who checked our tickets said, "No bus." We took this to mean that we were on the wrong bus and we were naturally distraught. But the man didn't stop the bus to let us off and we just continued on our course. We were a bit stressed because we didn't know where we would end up. But in the end we arrived at our destination. We figure that "no bus" actually means, "wrong seat" because we couldn't read our bus tickets and just sat where we wanted. Ooops!



Then in Bahariyya, we were rushed by eight Egyptian men as we stepped off the bus. They all wanted us to stay at their hotel and take a tour. We were prepared for this so we shouted "no" at them and pushed our way through. Eventually we found the man from out hotel and he took us there. We stayed one night at the hotel and then the second night we camped in the white desert. So perhaps 200,000 years ago, there used to be a lake where the Sahara desert now stands and it has left a lot of interesting rock formations, sometimes you can find a sea shell or two!

Camping in the desert was the best thing we did on the trip. We were driven out into the desert and our guide, a Bedouin man, took us off the beaten track and showed us some cool stuff. Then in the evening we camped and he cooked us dinner and set up the camp. I desperately tried to help him but he refused and insisted I sit down or explore the rocks. Todd of course didn't mind this at all and put himself on "run patrol" which is Todd-enese for "not helping"! Also because we are Americans we had to have an armed tourist policeman with us, so he basically just sat around and our driver made him help! We got to see the sun set and the moon rise. It was awesome. Then during the night some desert foxes visited us. I was sleeping and didn't see them but they left their tracks in the sand.



After the desert we head to Luxor, which I nicknamed Butt-xor. The Egyptian ruins in Luxor were the best we had seen but the harassment from the taxi drivers and the merchants was unbelieveable. I felt like a walking dollar bill. No one was genuinely nice to us, they all wanted to do was trick us. It is a bad feeling to carry around with you. I expected men to stay stuff like this: "Heh, heh. Look at this! Yes! Combination hookah and coffee maker, also makes Julienne fries. Will not break!" But instead they said stuff to me like this: "Why don't buy this? Why you do this to me? I give you 50% discount. You lucky man (to Todd)." It drove me crazy! If someone tells Todd he is a lucky man one more time I will explode. And talk to him, he is not a lucky man, I beat him and torture him all the time!! :)



As for the sights in Luxor, we saw Luxor temple, Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, the valley of the Queens and the temple of Hatshepsut (the strongest and most famous female pharaoh). Karnak was by far the most amazing. It was a temple to the god Amunra and it used to employ 80,000 people. Most of the good stuff has been moved to the Egyptian museum but what was left was still amazing. Also, the Valley of the Kings was cool because we got to go down in actual tombs. The paint was still colorful on the walls, amazing after so much time.




Then after having all our fill of Butt-xor, er.. I mean Luxor. We hopped on the train back to Cairo. With our last two days in Egypt. We went to the Egyptian Museum and Islamic Cairo. The Egyptian Museum was cool but it was in absolute disarray. I expect a museum to be labeled, catalogued, organized, and somewhat sterile. Here, they had stuff laying everywhere. It said not the touch but you could do whatever you wanted. Plus, there were huge tours going on and it wasn't quiet at all.

Islamic Cairo was very interesting. We were taken on tour of the oldest and most famous mosque Al-Azhar. It claims to be the oldest educational institution, starting in 988AD. We were shown around by a nice man who wanted to take our picture in front of everything but wasn't very good at taking pictures! Hilarious. Anyway, he also instructed me that I should have 7 babies and told Todd if I couldn't have babies, then he should get another wife!!!





Overall, Egypt was fun. I wasn't prepared for the harassment that I was bound to receive but we got used to it after a few days. It just so happens that Todd and I are really nice, so we expect the best from people. If you go, don't take that expectation and you will have a great time. And the best news of all, Todd didn't trade me for a camel, although tempting, and I made it back to Moscow!